Demi Cup and Band

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  1. How do you determine grain line? I do on your bare essentials book so feel free to point me to where that information is if it’s covered there or in another video.

    • In general, you don’t want to restrict the stretch on any of the seams, so I’d place the least stretch going across the center of the cup from the wire to the apex. It is really subjective and dependent on the fabrics themselves. Most of the bra making fabrics have a hair of give in most directions, so its forgiving. If you use cotton woven, you may have to play more with the grains. As with clothing the cross grain, goes around the body, but because the breast is cylindrical, it may work with some fabrics in one direction and not in others. I know this is kind of a non-answer, but the real answer is to experiment and think of how you want it to shape the breast. The top cup might have different rules than the bottom cups, then a powerbar might need to be bias. What I would do is cut the pattern in paper and tape together. Then look at where you want to keep it more stable on the body. A simple manipulation of moving a seam by 1″, could be a completely different grain.

  2. Hi, as drafted, the bottom cup seam length is 5/16″ too short, putting my nipple into the upper cup. Can I reduce the upper cup depth at the apex ( I filled in about 1/2″ concave) and add it do the bottom cup at the apex? What’s stopped me from doing is this is that the upper cup will be flattened, whilst the lower cup will be more rounded.

    • I would make one change at a time. Add to the bottom cup first to raise that cup up, maybe splitting the amount you need it raised between the top and bottom of the center seam. Then once you have the bottom cup raised, then make changes to the top cup for fit. The demi is a challenging animal. Be sure there isn’t any concave at the bottom of the cup either.

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